Modena! Modena! Modena!

NOTE:  As of January 17, 2012, I have moved my blog to my new website:  www.onegirlsadventures.com

I will still be doing duplicate posts on this website for the next 6 months or so, but plan to close it down after that.  Please go to my new website and subscribe!!

MERCI BEAUCOUP!

****

My last night in Modena  (pronounced MO-deh-nah), my adorable server, Luca, asked me, "Why did you come to Modena?"  The simple answer: to eat...of course!  The medieval town is not the tourist mecca that some other towns in Italy draw...but the Emilia-Romagna region is touted as having the best food in Italy.  The famous Parmigiano Reggiano is made just one short train stop away, traditional balsamic vinegar is the pride of Modena and the fresh tortellini, tortelloni and tagliatelle is on every trattoria and osteria menu.  The question for me was more, "why would I NOT come"...versus Luca's inquiry.

I was definitely one of a few out of town visitors to this special town...but that was fine with me cuz I came to eat like a local. And mission accomplished! Even though I dined alone each evening, I somehow passed hours at each restaurant.  I literally savored every moment in this town, the birth place of Pavorati, home of the Ferrari and Maserati (Lamborghini is made one town away!)...and the only place in the world where traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Modena is lovingly made in the attics of locals' homes.

I apologize in advance for the parade of food photos that are to follow (especially if you are hungry!).  But like I said, I went to Modena to eat...and it would be a shame not to share the artistry of the food...even if only in pictures.

                                                     

The streets of Modena. 

Like many towns in Italy, its history dates back to ancient times. It was a Roman colony at one point, but the "centro storico" of today is a perfectly preserved medieval town with cobblestone streets and a beautiful 12th century duomo.

My first meal in Modena was at a very casual trattoria about 5 minutes from my hotel.

I started the meal with an antipasti of local cured hams and gnocci fritto...which are typical to this region and are kinda like large fried, doughy ravioli.  Quite delicious.

For my primi (and secondi) I had the handmade tortelloni with pureed zucca (pumpkin!)...oh wow, with the fresh grated parma-reggia it was something to linger over...which I did for about an hour cuz I didn't want the meal to end:).

Dessert was the owner's favorite, coconut semifreddo with drizzled hot chocolate sauce.

I rolled home that evening....and was happy to do so!

Because Modena is associated all over the world with balsamic vinegar, I made it my mission on my first full day in Modena to learn about this syrupy sensation.  I read online that there was a place just outside of the center that did free tours...and since the price was right, I set out to find it.  When I rang the doorbell, I didn't realize that I would be ringing some one's home nor that I technically needed an appointment. Giorgio, the owner of the home and the maker of the traditional vinegar, let me in.  He let me into his home which has been in his family the past 150 years and up the stairs to the attic where he keeps the Modena tradition of making balsamic vinegar...learned from his grandmother.  Giorgio didn't speak much English, so our time together was more tasting the final product than learning about the process to make it...but after about an hour his wife, Giovanna, came home to give me the 411 on the ingredients (just Trebbiano grapes!), methods, timing and extreme passion that goes into this 350 year old art.

Over the course of 25 years, the boiled down juices from the local trebbiano grape are aged in the barrels of different woods. Each year liquid from one barrel is moved in small quantities to the smaller barrel next to it. Over the course of the 12 - 25 plus years the juice ages. It become thick, black and develops a stunning, sweet and a bit acidic flavor.  The smallest barrel contains the product that may merit bottling.

The process to create balsalmic vinegar in Modena is very strict and government regulated.  To be considered a "Traditional," a producer needs to live within the city limits of Modena, follow a strict process to create the vinegar and pass the blind taste tests set up by the local Chamber of Commerce.  It is only with their okay that a producer can bottle their 12year bottle or reserve bottle (25+ year) of Modena's "black gold."

Giorgio's reserve balsamic aged in cherry wood definitely passed my taste taste :).

This 35 year old liquid gold was intense, smooth and begged me to take home a bottle.

Giorgio is one of 45 producers of this vinegar in Modena. He sells his most expensive reserve, 25+ year old bottles, for over 100 Euro...which is a steal considering these vinegars can cost up to 200 Euro.

Giorgio does this art because of his love of the tradition and his passion for the product.

He does not make any profits off the sale of his vinegars.

How do you REALLY know a balsamic vinegar is a TRADITIONAL balsamic from Modena?

Just look at the bottle!!!

The real thing is identified by its mandatory DOP label and by its only legal container: a square-footed bottle designed by Giorgio Giugiaro, whose other projects include cars for Maserati and Lamborghini!
This is my little bottle that I am bringing home...can't wait to put in on cheeses, meats and desserts!!!

After seeing how the balsalmic was produced, I needed to see it presented!

My 2 star Michelin restaurant that I wanted to go to was booked (argh!)...so I opted for this one star Michelin alternative :).  I am so happy I did! 

When in Modena, eat like the Modenese...and I did.  My starter was prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiana-Reggiano with a few small drops of the fabled Tradional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena...getting hungry again just remembering it....

My primo piatto was a handmade tagliatelle with a 5 meat ragu sauce...and my secondo was a bolognese cutlet with prosciutto-parma cream sauce and little itty bitty square potatoes...really you think that would be enough, but yes, I had dessert too. All was paired lovingly and expertly with local wines....

Yet I rolled home another night in Modena!!

The beautiful and bountiful market in Modena.

Fresh pasta available to buy at the daily market.

Outside the Modena market...it was pretty inside and out!

I bought fruit, water and the local Lambrusco wine (light frizzante wine made from the Lambrusco grape) from this market.

I had gotten a half bottle of Lambrusco my first night in Modena from my hotel...it was good, but not great. So when I went down my 3rd night to try a different wine, I told the man at the front desk I wanted something besides Lambrusco.  He said, "Yeah, I understand.  Lambrusco is like Coca Cola."

Ah, I love being in a country where they compare their wines to soft drinks!!!

A quick look inside the 12th century duomo.

No pictures were allowed...except this one :)

I wrapped up my eating adventure in Modena with this delicious, flourless 70% cacao cake at a little enoteca.

I had already delighted my tummy with tortellini, cheeses and salamis...so this seemed like the perfect cap for the evening and my entire time in this culinary haven.

On the way home I said my good-byes to Modena and captured a few of her pretty piazzas at night on camera. 

That evening, prior to setting out to my restaurant of choice, I had asked the hotel receptionist (who I think is also the owner) his opinion on several restaurants...like I had done the 2 nights previously.  Upon finishing my list of a few places I wanted his local, expert opinion on he exclaimed, "Wow, you know EVERYTHING about Modena!"  Actually, no....correction....not everything about Modena, just everything about your restaurants, because that is what I set out to do...and I am proud to say I was successful.

SO if you are going to Modena, send me an email...I have a list of some GREAT places you can eat at!

Next stop Sorrento and the Almafi Coast...where I write this from now!!!  I met my friends, Mark and Rosie, down here....so nice to be with friends!!!!

First Stop in Italy: Torino to Visit my Italian Cousins!

NOTE:  As of January 17, 2012, I have moved my blog to my new website:  www.onegirlsadventures.com

I will still be doing duplicate posts on this website for the next 6 months or so, but plan to close it down after that.  Please go to my new website and subscribe!!

MERCI BEAUCOUP!

****

As unbearable as getting up at 5:15am to catch my 7:41am train was, the views I witnessed as we crossed the Alps from France into Italy were breathtaking.  The train traversed through dramatic rugged mountain peaks dusted with some of the first snow of the year.  The mountain sides were painted with the colors of  the tree leaves in their vibrant fall colors - a wonderful array of greens, yellows, rusts and oranges.  Dotting the countryside were quaint, ancient towns that charmed with their stone houses, tile roofs and quintessential little churches.  It was the most beautiful train ride I have ever taken...simply stunning.

My Italian cousin, Cristina, had said the trains from Paris are always late...thankfully I was on one with a time conscious conductor who got us to the Torino Porta Susa train station right on schedule.  Cristina was there waiting for me!  The last time I visited Torino was over 3 years ago with my Mom and Aunt Peggy....I was overdue for another visit and catch-up, although brief, with my relatives in Italy.

Susanna, my 17 year old cousin, took the 2 days that I was there off of school to practice her English :)...so together with her mom, us 3 girls re-explored the great and beautiful city of Torino.

My first cappuccino in Italy! Yay!

Our first morning we headed for a visit to the Royal Palace of Veneria (Reggia di Veneria Reale)...but before heading inside Cristina suggested we stop for a coffee. Brilliant!  I love Italians!

Cristina, Me and Susanna inside the Veneria Palace.

This imposing palace was a former royal residence of the the Royal House of Savoy.

It is one of the largest royal palaces in the world, comparable in size and structure to Versailles.

It was commissioned to be built in the mid 17th century by Carlo Emanuele II as a hunting base for his expeditions in the hills north of Torino.

Susanna did an amazing job of being my tour guide...I was so impressed with all her knowledge of the history of Torino, and even more impressed with how well she communicated all that knowledge to me in English.

The Galleria Grande inside the palace was so incredible!!

If Susanna wanted to rent this hall out for her 18th Birthday party (in less than one month!!) it would cost 20,000 Euro....hmmm, maybe best save up that money to come visit her cousin in Seattle :)!

2 cute girls on the streets of village outside of the Veneria Palace...the 3rd cute girl, Cristina, was taking our picture!

After lunch at home (prosciutto rolled up in rabbit, haricots, grissinni, baguette, a yummy chocolate flan-like dessert called Bonnet and sparkling water), Susanna rushed to her BELLY DANCING lessons near her private Catholic school :).  Cristina and I arrived a few minutes before it ended so I could see Susanna "shake her thing!"  Wow!  did it look fun...those women shimmied and jostled their upper and lower bodies quite well...the teacher, Aziza, was particularly amazing.  I think Susanna inspired me to give it a go at home!!

Susanna is the one on the far left with the purple scarf around her waist....she doesn't know I took this picture!  Ha!

Italians have lots of great ideas....but I think this may be one of their best!

Cristina's car is parked in a spot designated ONLY for women!!  The sign (which I don't think is legible) reads, "place reserved for women."  It is close to the entrance/exit of the parking garage...and the detail I particularly get a kick out of is the pink line that distinguishes the spot!!!  I need to talk to the Seattle City Council when I get back!

Downtown Torino at night...it simply sparkled.

This evening we walked the streets and window shopped. 

For dinner we ate at a little cafe and enjoyed a typical Piemontese "happy hour".  For 8 euro we could order a drink and then got access to a buffet of delicious salads, cheeses, pizzas, bruschetta and desserts.

I am really not sure why we don't have something like this in the US...it was perfect as a snack or a meal... you could go back as many times as you liked (I went back twice...plus a dessert run!).

No matter the country, we love our wi-fi and laptops!

Cristina was on the computer on the other side of the room...it was quite funny with all of us on a computer while Bruno, my cousin and Cristina's husband, was watching t.v.

Ah, some things just  always feel like home! 

The following morning we went and explored one of the big markets in Torino.

As a note, at produce markets in Italy you are not allowed to touch the fruit!!  Instead you tell the vendor what you would like and he/she selects the best ones from the pile.  I know last time I was at the market 3 years ago, I was scolded for touching fruit...trust me it didn't happen this time.

Before spending the rest of the evening with family, we made one final stop at EATALY.

This fabulous high end shopping market specializes in everything relating to Italian food.  It has aisles of different pastas, caves of wine and Italian beer, refrigerators full of fresh Mediterranean fish and little tasting areas all over.  Susanna and I stopped for some gelato and Cristina got this amazing zabaglione in a little paper cup :).  I had to get this picture of the truffles they had on display...and yes, you are reading the prices correctly :).  An Eataly just opened in NYC a few months ago...but this one, the original, will always be the best!

In the evening we took Cristina's one year old niece, Cecilia (or "earthquake" as Cristina calls her!), to her swimming lesson.  Her mom, Francesca, wasn't able to splash around that afternoon...so Susanna took her place in the warm pool with the teacher.  I am not sure I have seen anything cuter...little Cecilia in her wee pink swimming cap playing with the toys, swallowing water, doing little kicks and sucking her thumb in between all the big smiles.  I would have gotten a picture...but it wasn't allowed...I found that out when I took out my camera and the teacher looked at me and started shaking her finger.  It was Italian I understood :).

The evening wrapped up over pizza in the kitchen at Bruno and Cristina's house.  Cecilia, Francesca, Andrea (Cristina's brother and dad of Cecilia), Cristina, Bruno, Susanna, Mariucca and Fiorenzo (Bruno's parents) and I all shared my last evening together.  It was quite wonderful, just like the last 2 days I had spent there.  As I sat there in the kitchen just taking in all the melodious Italian, I felt so happy and so lucky.  Cristian, Bruno and Susanna had all completely opened their home and hearts to me...and made me feel so welcome and so at home.  I only hope they all come to visit me soon so I can return their incredible hospitality. In the meantime, a big American hug to all of them!!!!!! Their generosity and kindness is unforgettable.

The following morning Cristina dropped me at the train station so I could head to Modena in Emilia-Romagna for some gastronomic indulgences (which is where I am writing this post from!!).  Her last words to me were, "Do well with your life." Ah, I pray to the good Lord everyday the same thing.

Paris! The City of Lights and...er, Rain :)

NOTE:  As of January 17, 2012, I have moved my blog to my new website:  www.onegirlsadventures.com

I will still be doing duplicate posts on this website for the next 6 months or so, but plan to close it down after that.  Please go to my new website and subscribe!!

MERCI BEAUCOUP!

****

Tonight I wrap up 4 days in Paris.  And really what can I say about Paris that hasn't already been said...it was as expected: Spectacular! My feet got a bit more wet than I would have liked the last 2 days...but I did come in November and my first 2 days here more than made up for the drenching I received yesterday and today.

How can I not start this post without a picture of the Paris' "Iron Lady?"

She is more mesmerizing at night when she literally sparkles.

I took this picture at the end of a "free walking tour" I read about on Trip Advisor...it was kinda neat.  The guides work off tips only and are local Parisians with personalities :).  I did 2 of the 3 tours they offered.

My Parisian apartment!

I was so fortunate to stay at my friend's brother's apartment near the Arc de Triomphe.  It was quaint, cozy and a nice reprieve from hotel life. AND I got to do laundry!  Outside the building door is a 2 star Michelin Restaurant called Michel Rostang, fantastic patisseries and wonderful fresh fish, veggie and fruit markets.  The cheese stores and wine stores were all too much for me to handle as well. Frankly, I need more time here.  I am just now starting to get comfortable (you should see me operate the metro doors now!  Just like a real Parisian!)...plus there are way too many stores that I have yet to visit!

Speaking of stores!  I did get a pair of chaussures from this shop, Repetto....it is a 100% Parisian brand with its history dating back to 1947.  Rose Repetto made prima ballerina shoes for the dancers at the National Opera house (just down the street).  When Bridgette Bardot asked her to make her a pair of shoes, her brand took off.  Madame Repetto opened her first shop in 1959 on Rue de la Paix (where I got my shoes!....and the famous rue with the all the high end jewelry shops...Chopard, Cartier, Van Cliff & Arpels, etc).  If you chose, you can have your foot fitted and they will make you a custom pair.  It takes 3 weeks, but probably worth the wait!  The shoes are beautiful...and a piece of Paris history!

The Second Empire knew what it was doing when it created the National Opera house in Paris. A representation of the republic's success and riches (it was finished in the Third Republic) it is an amazing accomplishment by a relatively unknown architect at the time, Charles Garnier. Next time I will attend a show there and wear my new Repetto shoes:)!

It had been 16 years since I went into the Louvre last...so I figured it was time I renewed acquaintance with Ms. Mona Lisa.  She hasn't changed a bit...although apparently now she is too fragile to move.  Her eternal spot is in the Louvre (no more trips across the pond for an expedition in good ole USA).  The line wasn't horrible when I got there...thankfully...and I made my 11am guided tour by the most french of french men.  He reveled in calling other tourists "barbarians" and wouldn't tolerate any interruptions.  Those who did were cut off quickly with a, "Madame/Monsieur, if you WOULD let me finish....*huff*".  I actually got more entertainment out of him than all the masterpieces I saw :).

It is said it takes 27 days to do the Louvre properly...I gave her 3 hours :).  Sufficient for another 16 years.

Napoleon III's apartment in the Louvre.

French opulence is beyond compare...thanks to all of the inspiration from Louis XIV.  I was in awe as I walked through these retired living quarters...simply divine.  I could live in a land of gold gilded everything :)

  

Just proving that every 2 steps is a photo opp in Paris.  I have no clue as to the history or what this little statuette is all about...but I LOVED her (I actually think she was part of the 1900 expo)! And with the River Seine behind her it begged a picture!

The Latin Quarter!

I appreciated a break from the Hausmmann style architecture that is stereotypical of Paris...don't get me wrong, I love the running balconies and the beautiful, uniform facades that create the Right Bank. But the uneven lines and cartoon like qualities of some of the medieval side streets on the Left Bank delighted me.

Hmmm, my little Asian friend who took this picture kinda cut out most of the Place de la Concorde...but here I am in the heart of Paris.  Also I am in the same plaza where Marie Antoinette was beheaded and 3000 or so others.  Today it is called "Harmony Square"... :).  Interesting fact:  The guillotine was used in Paris up until 1977...then the death penalty was abolished.

In my hand is my pain au chocolat for tomorrow's train ride to Torino, Italy.  Although you can't find these little dandies on any US or European commodity exchange, I swear they are more valuable than gold!  At least that is how I see them...oh, how I inhale those scrumptious delights.  Today, since it was my last day, I pretty much had one hourly :).

Ah, you can guess who this is!!!

Today, my last day, was spent with the master's of impressionism...fantastic!

I had been reading everywhere that the first Sunday of each month was free entrance into Parisian museums.  I kept thinking how great it WOULD have been to come during that weekend...I didn't make the connection that I DID come during THAT weekend until I arrived at Musee de L'Orangerie and they wouldn't take my money at the ticket booth!  Yay! After Orangerie, I headed over to spend time at Musee d'Orsay.  Loved most the pieces by Bonnard.

After all the walking and museum time, I was starved!  So this girl in Paris went to the markets to take advantage of all the fresh goods and her kitchen in Paris!

First stop was veggies...cherry tomatoes, italian parsley and garlic. (actually the first stop was for a lovely Sancerre at well supplied wine shop....he even opened the bottle for me before leaving).

Second stop was for some wonderful fresh shrimp and clams.  If I understood correctly they came from Normandy.  Last stop was to the Monoprix for some pasta!

Small but sufficient kitchen!

Everything smelled wonderful...and it was incredibly simple meal!

Voila!

And I ate all of it....soooo yummy, so flavorful, so fresh...and only like 6 ingredients!

Clean up wasn't so bad either...but even in Paris it isn't fun :).

Tomorrow is a VERY early morning.  My train to Torino leaves at 7:41am...and those who know me well, know that I am NOT a morning person :).  However, tomorrow I think I may bounce out of bed easier because in Torino I will be visiting my Italian relatives!!!  I cannot wait!!!!  Let's hope I just don't bring the rain with me!

Last picture from Paris:

Rodin's The Kiss 

I think this is pretty much the only way to spend time in Paris!

Yet another romantic city to come back to...ah, Africa was easier in this respect :).

Au Revoir from my last French speaking country.  Only 2 more countries left on my tour of 8 over these 2 months....where does time go!?

Santiago de Compostela - Spain's most Romantic and Historic City

NOTE:  As of January 17, 2012, I have moved my blog to my new website:  www.onegirlsadventures.com

I will still be doing duplicate posts on this website for the next 6 months or so, but plan to close it down after that.  Please go to my new website and subscribe!!

MERCI BEAUCOUP!

****

I have arrived here 4 days before Pope Benedict XVI.  Like me, it will be his first visit to what is considered to be the 3rd most sacred city in Christianity (behind Jerusalem and Rome...remarkably I will have visited all 3 this year after I visit Rome in a few weeks).  He, of course, will get much more fanfare upon his arrival than I did...but it is undeniable the magic this city possesses.  Pilgrims have been walking the Camino de Santiago since the 12th century in order to pray in front the tomb of St. James, one of Jesus' preferred apostles and Spain's patron saint, and renew their spirit. Although I did not walk the miles that some do to get here, I felt like my 12 hour train ride to reach this hard to get to part of Northern Spain in Galicia was a pilgrimage in its own rite.  I arrived late last night and after a few wrong turns (due to the fact that I couldn't read my map that I had printed out from home!) and daunting sets of archaic stair ways with my over 50 lb bag, I arrived at my sanctuary, Hotel Costa Vella, in this small city.

Isn't it quaint!! 

 Upon my arrival, Roberto in the reception was busy helping folks in the hotel's cafe...so instead of checking  me in he invited me to a glass of wine in the bar while he got caught up with serving all the other patrons.

Galicia is know for some outstanding wines....I was blown over by the white wine served to me from the Ribeiro region, one of the most famous here.  I am going to grab a few bottles for my stay in Paris...which I leave for tomorrow.  Another region which is suppose to produce even better wines is called Albarino...I will be heading to a vinoteca before dinner tonight to check out the fruits of this region.

Since I only had one day here, I awoke early to make sure I made most of my time. After my tarta

de Santiago (an almond cake that is made here and decorated with powdered sugar and a stenciled

 cross of Santiago), queso de tetilla (local cheese from cows...very mild) and pan con aceite (oooh, the olive oil was delicious!), I ventured into the winding cobblestone streets of the medieval village.  This was my first glimpse of  the "newly added" Baroque facade (from the 18th century) of this mostly Romanesque cathedral. A church was erected here after the long-lost tomb of St. James was found in 813 in this spot.  The bigger cathedral of today begin being build in 1075 to accommodate all the crowds.  This year is considered a holy year for the church as the date of July 25th, the date the tomb of St. James was rediscovered, falls on a Sunday.  Because of this, there will be more visitors this year than others...although this morning I enjoyed a relatively peaceful, uncrowded tour of the cathedral and the tomb.

The shrine of the tomb of St. James the Greater.

It is within in this shrine that pilgrims go to give the statue of St. James a big ole hug!  And this included me!

I was a bit nervous :)...especially once I got up behind the statue and noticed that it looked down onto a

hoard of priests dressed in  purple robes giving mass in front of a larger congregation.  In front of them all, I reached around his neck, laid my head on his gold gilded and jewel encrusted back for a moment and just took in the ritual that millions of others have done before me.

The central nave in the cathedral.

Behind me is the portico where all the pilgrims enter the church upon arrival (although this pilgrim came through the side entrance....where they rent the audio guides for 3euro....I had to leave my passport as insurance I would give back the little audio headset, seemed like a lopsided exchange).  One thing I kept noticing was all the white scalloped shells around the necks of pilgrims (usually with a little inscription)...and in all the tourist shops :).  Apparently, because these shells are so abundant on the Galician coast, they are associated with Santiago all over Europe...so pilgrims take them home to prove they were here.  I found myself some other "recuerdos" to prove I was here...a picture of my souvenir coat is a few photos down :).

The Botafumiero....or incense burner.

This is not the one that will be used at the mass when the pope arrives...but it will be similar. It is about the size of a human and swings across the church like a trapeze artist. If only I could have seen that!!

 Today this incense burner is strictly for liturgical purposes...but in medieval times it served a more utilitarian purpose: neutralize the smells from the masses of sweating, unwashed pilgrims who went straight to the cathedral after days on the road!  Another reason I am glad I wasn't alive during medieval times :)

Those priests in purple were the ones singing while I hugged St. James!

A pilgrim you might recognize!  I do! :)

Next to me and the cathedral is "Europe's oldest hotel".  It is a hotel that was built in 1499 after King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella made the pilgrimage to Santiago.  They were surprised at the lack of housing for the faithful as well as medical support (a lot of pilgrims came ill hoping to be healed by the saint or got sick along the route).  As a result they built both a hotel and hospital!  They were free for the pilgrims to enter...and the hotel remained so until the 1950s when the Spanish government took it over and made it into a 5 star "parador"...now, unless you are a guest, you can't enter. What I liked about its facade was the figure of St. Catherine!  

After all that praying and pilgriming, I got hungry! The tapas in Galicia are a bit less extravagant than what I found in Sevilla, but the jamon iberico on pan hit the spot.  These little morsels sell for 1.60 Euro each...

Santiago is one of the few places in Spain that still honors the tradition of serving a free tapa with a drink at a bar.  In fact, right this second I am writing this from a little vinoteca next to the catedral (the one I mentioned earlier in this post that I WOULD go to!).  I ordered a local Albarino wine and it was served with a delightful dish of salami, cheese and bread! Oh, do I really have to leave tomorrow!?

One of the reasons they call this the most romantic city in Spain....a lovely park with walking trails that provide excellent views of the city and the catedral.  Never mind the dripping feel of romance that I felt while walking the narrow streets in the old part of town tonight....stones glistening from the latest rain fall, soft light from the street lights and tiny, winding alleys that  just beg to be used to steel kisses

....hmmm, would have been nice to have held some one's hand.  Guess I need to come back!

Modeling my new coat (I bought it at my favorite Spanish store, Zara) in the garden at my hotel.

They fill the fountain with apples and pomegranates...incredible!

Well, not everything in Santiago is raindrops and roses...I just got home from my worst meal of all time.  Because I am sucker for marketing, I decided to check out the restaurant in the parador (built by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella).  Really, at this point in my life I should know not to expect excellence from anything run by a government...oh, but the idea of being served a 5 course meal that is a journey through the history of the Camino del Santiago was too much to resist....couple that with dining in a history rich venue, and I melt. It didn't even cross my mind that it would be anything but excellent.  Wrong! I have never not been able to eat more than one bite from anything EVER served me, but pretty much all my courses ended up that way tonight.  Oh, the horror....here is a glimpse of it below:

At least you get a look at the famous scallop shell...about the only think good on this starter platter (and note is is NOT edible).

The saving grace of  this meal was the walk home. I got my final glimpse of the historic church at night.  It dazzled in the soft light and mist of the rain.  It gave me goosebumps. 

Tomorrow I hop on a train for Paris!  It will take me just under 24 hours to get there...my "nalgas" hurt already just thinking about sitting that long (especially since I don't have a sleeping car yet reserved on the overnight train...just a seat!).  I went grocery shopping today and stocked up on all the "baguette pequenos", naranjas, tortas de queso and croissant con chocolate that I will need.  I am a bit sad that I am leaving Spain already....feels like I just got here :)....but I guess that is why Delta and Iberico have many flights a day from the US to Spain, so I will be back soon.  Hasta Luego y Muchos Besitos!

Oh...looking forward to election day results in the morning before I take my train!