Saying Good-bye to Italy...

NOTE:  As of January 17, 2012, I have moved my blog to my new website:  www.onegirlsadventures.com

I will still be doing duplicate posts on this website for the next 6 months or so, but plan to close it down after that.  Please go to my new website and subscribe!!

MERCI BEAUCOUP!

****

Well, as stated earlier in my travels....travel companions, although glorious to be with, do not lend to consitent blog posts.  As it happens, I am actually in Greece right now :)...having a light cheese plate, glass of white wine and listening to Mark and Adam talk about the importance of the UN.

I left Italy yesterday on an Alitalia flight from Rome to Athens.  Since my last post I spent 3 nights in Sorrento, 2 nights in Positano and 3 nights in Rome.  My time in the Almafi Coast was the most furthest south of Rome I have ever been.  I, of course, had seen many pictures of this beautiful coast line prior to my arrival...and it was just as impressive in real life.  The Limoncello was pretty amazing too :).

The ruins of Pompeii are about 20 minutes outside of Sorrento.

Our first full day in Sorrento we took the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii and explored this well preserved Roman city that was buried under 20 feet of ash when Mt. Vesuvius errupted in August in 79 AD.

Frescos in Pompeii.

In the glass cases are casts of a few victims found when the site was being excavated.

Of the 20,000 people that lived in Pompeii at the time, 2,000 were buried alive.

These are just a few of the people that didn't run fast enough.  The casts are created around their ancient bones, so if you look close enough you can still see their teeth, skull and toe bones. 

One of the victims had teeth that were quite nice.

\

The crew :)

Mark, Rosie and I in the forum in Pompeii.

I certainly look short compared to those guys :)

After my time in the hammam in Algeria, I have been dying for another similar experience.

This roman bath is akin to the hammam, but unfortunatley the last time steam dripped from these walls was at noon on August 27, 79 AD.

It sure was lovely...even in ruins.

The fountain I am standing next to was bought for the public bath by 2 politicians of the day.

Still today you can see their names in bronze in the fountain...I am not sure it that was their way of garnishing votes, but seems like a pretty neat contribution nonetheless (campaign finance laws were probably a bit more lax back then :) ).

Some of the incredible detail in the bath in Pompeii...this, of course, was the bath for men.  Something tells me the women's bath was a bit less ornate.

A picture of Sorrento from the port.

On the island of Capri :).

Maria Carey's house is apparently behind me...somewhere in the distance...not that I cared :).

We took a chair lift up to this point....oh lord was it chilly on that thing!  My feet hurt when I had to hop off after the 15 minute ride up in the wind.  Not sure it was worth the 8 Euro....live and learn.

Shopping in Capri!!

There may be a Valentino dress in that little blue bag :)....how could I resist??

I was in Capri....plus I look really cute in it :).  I swear!

A view of the port in Capri before we headed back to Sorrento....to celebrate Mark's birthday!

We went to a lovely one star Michelin restaurant in Sorrento called, Il Buco.

Campagnia does a good job with thier food and I really enjoyed the wines that night...but having just come from Emilia-Romagna it was tough to compare (if I am to be honest)....although the lemon risotto was enough to bring me back.  The company and conversation really made the evening that night.  We stayed for 4 hours...I think I was in tears laughing twice during the evening.  Finally around midnight we were gently pushed to the door....who knows, we may still have been there :).

The beautiful town of Positano.

After Sorrento we spent 2 nights here in this little gem.

We didn't have a hotel reserved, but Rosie and I stumbled upon a "residence" that opened one of thier apartments to us.  It was 2 bedroom, 2 bath with a kitchenette and a balcony with an amazing view of town and the Mediterranean (which pretty much looked exactly like this picture). 

This is Boo Boo.

He is one of the stray dogs in Positano that gets taken care of by all the towns people.

He has been given a little collar so he doesn't look stray...which keeps him safe from the dog catcher.

The people of Positano take turns bathing him to keep him clean as well.

We saw this little guy all over town just enjoying his freedom...he refuses to stay at any one person's house.

For one night he adopted us and followed us to dinner.  He is just taking a little nap here as we eat our pasta next to the sea.

The dome of Positano's main church.

The church next to the town's only bar.

During the high season, locals don't frequent the only bar in town (the orange building next across the street from the church) because it is overrun by tourists.  Since we went at the end of November, tourists were few and far between...which meant the locals had been able to reclaim their bar :). It also meant it was much more convenient for them to go pray before and after a drink. :)

Next fermata...and final stop in Italy: ROME

Here she is...uh, maybe he is.

Anyway no introduction is needed to this magnificent Catholic tribute, religious shrine and tomb to St. Peter.

I had been at the Vatican 16 years ago...and my experience was much more intimate and awe-inspiring then.  Back then I was one of a few walking the Sistine Chapel with my little audio guide.  It was me, St. Peter and Michelangelo as I stared up with amazment and revery at the ceiling that has inspired art movements and millions of people....God seeking and secular.  This time was SOOOOO different!

We were in Rome during a low season, yet the line to get into the Vatican Museum was 3 hours long...in the rain.  We opted for the 45 Euro tour that got us to cut in front of the line (it costs 15 Euro to get in, so the plus 30 Euro to get our wet feet out of the puddles was well worth it).  Once inside we were part of a sea of humanity being moved from room to room....

The ceilings in the tapestry room.

The tapestries in this hall were once hung in the Sistine Chapel.

Okay, just have to break for one second....as I write this, the song, "I Had the Time of My Life" just came on over the stereo in my little Athens hotel bar.  So appropriate!!!!

In the Hall of Maps.

This hall has all the regions of Italy painted on its walls.

Believe it or not, I was the only one on my tour of over 30 people from all over the world who had Italian heritage....so when our guide got to this hall he yelled out for the Lady from Torino...and then preceded to show me the map of the region where my relatives are from.  This is a picture (although a bit blurred) of that map (Piemonte).

The Rafeal rooms were amazing...which is an understatement.

This is Rafael's tribute to philosophy...one of the four disciplines taught at University at the time.

Plato and Aristotle take center stage in this masterful piece.

The "surprise" is the prominence of Michelangelo....he is the gentleman in purple in the front of the painting with his elbow on the table lost in thought.  History says that Michelangelo was very secretive about his Sistine Chapel project...yet right before completion, Rafael snuck in to look at it.  He was so taken aback by its glory and mastery that he wanted to acknowledge Michelangelo as the master he was.

By placing him with such prominence in this piece, Rafeal is acknowledging that Michelangelo was in a league of his own...the best of the best.  Big compliment!...but deserved.

No pictures of any kind were allowed in the Sistine Chapel...but really no pictures need to be taken as so many perfect images have been captured over the years.  Who isn't familiar with the image of God giving life to Adam...after all it is the centerpiece.  The disappointment of this sacred place was the fact that we were packed in like sardines....shoulder to shoulder we all stood.  Guards would yell for us to keep moving, to be quiet, or "Madame, NO PHOTOS"....frankly, it was a HUGE disappointment to me given my experience of 16 years ago.  I didn't feel the sacredness of such a holy site or the respect it deserved from its temporary visitors.  The Michelangelo I stood with as a twenty-something year old was as lost in the crowd as I was...God seemed far away as Japenese tourists sneaked their iPhones out for an illegal image.  I forgot where I was...and really just wanted to get out.  It was a shame.  I guess even in the Eternal City...things change.  Not always for the better.  I will not be going back to the Vatican again....unless children compel me to in the future. :(

One thing that is always neat about the Vatican is their Swiss Guard.

Be be qualified, you have to be Swiss, between the age 19 - 25 and Catholic.

They only allowed pictures "with distance."

So here is Mark and I giving them their distance :)

In Rome we stayed steps away from the famous Spanish Steps (no pun intended!).

I stayed up in the loft while Rosie and Mark slept below.  The Philipino caretaker of these 4 rooms, Norman, was quite the detail man.  He meticulously rolled up all my electronic cords and folded my clothes each day!!!!  He also was persistant about setting me up with "Mr. Fabio" (a friend of the owner, Mr. Stefano)...but that never transpired :)

Dinner at a wonderful and homey trattoria.

A prix fixed menu was served with vigor and personality by Mama Paola.

We felt like we were in someone's home....just with a lot, a lot of other people!!!

I couldn't get enough of the home made potato chips...oh, yes!  You didn't misread that...these delights aren't "to die for"...but rather, "to kill for" :)

Ah, the Trevi Fountain!

Now that I think about it, I didn't cast my mandatory 2 coins..uh oh...does that mean I won't be back to Rome!!!!!  Yikes!!!

Final Photo from Italy:

In case there were any doubts that Italians eat pasta :)

This just made me laugh...and it is a picture from a LITTLE store in Positano...beyond the pasta there wasn't much more in the small space :)

One thing about Italy, it ALWAYS charms and enchants.  It is a place that I know I will come back to time and time again and will never get tired of its food, people and melodious language.  I will also NEVER get tired of Italian men calling me "Bella" or "Bellisima"....frankly, I need to bottle a few "Ciao Bellas" and unbottle it whenever I may be feeling down....cuz there is nothing more uplifting than those 2 words from a tall, dark, handsome man with an Italian accent :).

Ciao Italia!!!





Modena! Modena! Modena!

NOTE:  As of January 17, 2012, I have moved my blog to my new website:  www.onegirlsadventures.com

I will still be doing duplicate posts on this website for the next 6 months or so, but plan to close it down after that.  Please go to my new website and subscribe!!

MERCI BEAUCOUP!

****

My last night in Modena  (pronounced MO-deh-nah), my adorable server, Luca, asked me, "Why did you come to Modena?"  The simple answer: to eat...of course!  The medieval town is not the tourist mecca that some other towns in Italy draw...but the Emilia-Romagna region is touted as having the best food in Italy.  The famous Parmigiano Reggiano is made just one short train stop away, traditional balsamic vinegar is the pride of Modena and the fresh tortellini, tortelloni and tagliatelle is on every trattoria and osteria menu.  The question for me was more, "why would I NOT come"...versus Luca's inquiry.

I was definitely one of a few out of town visitors to this special town...but that was fine with me cuz I came to eat like a local. And mission accomplished! Even though I dined alone each evening, I somehow passed hours at each restaurant.  I literally savored every moment in this town, the birth place of Pavorati, home of the Ferrari and Maserati (Lamborghini is made one town away!)...and the only place in the world where traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Modena is lovingly made in the attics of locals' homes.

I apologize in advance for the parade of food photos that are to follow (especially if you are hungry!).  But like I said, I went to Modena to eat...and it would be a shame not to share the artistry of the food...even if only in pictures.

                                                     

The streets of Modena. 

Like many towns in Italy, its history dates back to ancient times. It was a Roman colony at one point, but the "centro storico" of today is a perfectly preserved medieval town with cobblestone streets and a beautiful 12th century duomo.

My first meal in Modena was at a very casual trattoria about 5 minutes from my hotel.

I started the meal with an antipasti of local cured hams and gnocci fritto...which are typical to this region and are kinda like large fried, doughy ravioli.  Quite delicious.

For my primi (and secondi) I had the handmade tortelloni with pureed zucca (pumpkin!)...oh wow, with the fresh grated parma-reggia it was something to linger over...which I did for about an hour cuz I didn't want the meal to end:).

Dessert was the owner's favorite, coconut semifreddo with drizzled hot chocolate sauce.

I rolled home that evening....and was happy to do so!

Because Modena is associated all over the world with balsamic vinegar, I made it my mission on my first full day in Modena to learn about this syrupy sensation.  I read online that there was a place just outside of the center that did free tours...and since the price was right, I set out to find it.  When I rang the doorbell, I didn't realize that I would be ringing some one's home nor that I technically needed an appointment. Giorgio, the owner of the home and the maker of the traditional vinegar, let me in.  He let me into his home which has been in his family the past 150 years and up the stairs to the attic where he keeps the Modena tradition of making balsamic vinegar...learned from his grandmother.  Giorgio didn't speak much English, so our time together was more tasting the final product than learning about the process to make it...but after about an hour his wife, Giovanna, came home to give me the 411 on the ingredients (just Trebbiano grapes!), methods, timing and extreme passion that goes into this 350 year old art.

Over the course of 25 years, the boiled down juices from the local trebbiano grape are aged in the barrels of different woods. Each year liquid from one barrel is moved in small quantities to the smaller barrel next to it. Over the course of the 12 - 25 plus years the juice ages. It become thick, black and develops a stunning, sweet and a bit acidic flavor.  The smallest barrel contains the product that may merit bottling.

The process to create balsalmic vinegar in Modena is very strict and government regulated.  To be considered a "Traditional," a producer needs to live within the city limits of Modena, follow a strict process to create the vinegar and pass the blind taste tests set up by the local Chamber of Commerce.  It is only with their okay that a producer can bottle their 12year bottle or reserve bottle (25+ year) of Modena's "black gold."

Giorgio's reserve balsamic aged in cherry wood definitely passed my taste taste :).

This 35 year old liquid gold was intense, smooth and begged me to take home a bottle.

Giorgio is one of 45 producers of this vinegar in Modena. He sells his most expensive reserve, 25+ year old bottles, for over 100 Euro...which is a steal considering these vinegars can cost up to 200 Euro.

Giorgio does this art because of his love of the tradition and his passion for the product.

He does not make any profits off the sale of his vinegars.

How do you REALLY know a balsamic vinegar is a TRADITIONAL balsamic from Modena?

Just look at the bottle!!!

The real thing is identified by its mandatory DOP label and by its only legal container: a square-footed bottle designed by Giorgio Giugiaro, whose other projects include cars for Maserati and Lamborghini!
This is my little bottle that I am bringing home...can't wait to put in on cheeses, meats and desserts!!!

After seeing how the balsalmic was produced, I needed to see it presented!

My 2 star Michelin restaurant that I wanted to go to was booked (argh!)...so I opted for this one star Michelin alternative :).  I am so happy I did! 

When in Modena, eat like the Modenese...and I did.  My starter was prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiana-Reggiano with a few small drops of the fabled Tradional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena...getting hungry again just remembering it....

My primo piatto was a handmade tagliatelle with a 5 meat ragu sauce...and my secondo was a bolognese cutlet with prosciutto-parma cream sauce and little itty bitty square potatoes...really you think that would be enough, but yes, I had dessert too. All was paired lovingly and expertly with local wines....

Yet I rolled home another night in Modena!!

The beautiful and bountiful market in Modena.

Fresh pasta available to buy at the daily market.

Outside the Modena market...it was pretty inside and out!

I bought fruit, water and the local Lambrusco wine (light frizzante wine made from the Lambrusco grape) from this market.

I had gotten a half bottle of Lambrusco my first night in Modena from my hotel...it was good, but not great. So when I went down my 3rd night to try a different wine, I told the man at the front desk I wanted something besides Lambrusco.  He said, "Yeah, I understand.  Lambrusco is like Coca Cola."

Ah, I love being in a country where they compare their wines to soft drinks!!!

A quick look inside the 12th century duomo.

No pictures were allowed...except this one :)

I wrapped up my eating adventure in Modena with this delicious, flourless 70% cacao cake at a little enoteca.

I had already delighted my tummy with tortellini, cheeses and salamis...so this seemed like the perfect cap for the evening and my entire time in this culinary haven.

On the way home I said my good-byes to Modena and captured a few of her pretty piazzas at night on camera. 

That evening, prior to setting out to my restaurant of choice, I had asked the hotel receptionist (who I think is also the owner) his opinion on several restaurants...like I had done the 2 nights previously.  Upon finishing my list of a few places I wanted his local, expert opinion on he exclaimed, "Wow, you know EVERYTHING about Modena!"  Actually, no....correction....not everything about Modena, just everything about your restaurants, because that is what I set out to do...and I am proud to say I was successful.

SO if you are going to Modena, send me an email...I have a list of some GREAT places you can eat at!

Next stop Sorrento and the Almafi Coast...where I write this from now!!!  I met my friends, Mark and Rosie, down here....so nice to be with friends!!!!

First Stop in Italy: Torino to Visit my Italian Cousins!

NOTE:  As of January 17, 2012, I have moved my blog to my new website:  www.onegirlsadventures.com

I will still be doing duplicate posts on this website for the next 6 months or so, but plan to close it down after that.  Please go to my new website and subscribe!!

MERCI BEAUCOUP!

****

As unbearable as getting up at 5:15am to catch my 7:41am train was, the views I witnessed as we crossed the Alps from France into Italy were breathtaking.  The train traversed through dramatic rugged mountain peaks dusted with some of the first snow of the year.  The mountain sides were painted with the colors of  the tree leaves in their vibrant fall colors - a wonderful array of greens, yellows, rusts and oranges.  Dotting the countryside were quaint, ancient towns that charmed with their stone houses, tile roofs and quintessential little churches.  It was the most beautiful train ride I have ever taken...simply stunning.

My Italian cousin, Cristina, had said the trains from Paris are always late...thankfully I was on one with a time conscious conductor who got us to the Torino Porta Susa train station right on schedule.  Cristina was there waiting for me!  The last time I visited Torino was over 3 years ago with my Mom and Aunt Peggy....I was overdue for another visit and catch-up, although brief, with my relatives in Italy.

Susanna, my 17 year old cousin, took the 2 days that I was there off of school to practice her English :)...so together with her mom, us 3 girls re-explored the great and beautiful city of Torino.

My first cappuccino in Italy! Yay!

Our first morning we headed for a visit to the Royal Palace of Veneria (Reggia di Veneria Reale)...but before heading inside Cristina suggested we stop for a coffee. Brilliant!  I love Italians!

Cristina, Me and Susanna inside the Veneria Palace.

This imposing palace was a former royal residence of the the Royal House of Savoy.

It is one of the largest royal palaces in the world, comparable in size and structure to Versailles.

It was commissioned to be built in the mid 17th century by Carlo Emanuele II as a hunting base for his expeditions in the hills north of Torino.

Susanna did an amazing job of being my tour guide...I was so impressed with all her knowledge of the history of Torino, and even more impressed with how well she communicated all that knowledge to me in English.

The Galleria Grande inside the palace was so incredible!!

If Susanna wanted to rent this hall out for her 18th Birthday party (in less than one month!!) it would cost 20,000 Euro....hmmm, maybe best save up that money to come visit her cousin in Seattle :)!

2 cute girls on the streets of village outside of the Veneria Palace...the 3rd cute girl, Cristina, was taking our picture!

After lunch at home (prosciutto rolled up in rabbit, haricots, grissinni, baguette, a yummy chocolate flan-like dessert called Bonnet and sparkling water), Susanna rushed to her BELLY DANCING lessons near her private Catholic school :).  Cristina and I arrived a few minutes before it ended so I could see Susanna "shake her thing!"  Wow!  did it look fun...those women shimmied and jostled their upper and lower bodies quite well...the teacher, Aziza, was particularly amazing.  I think Susanna inspired me to give it a go at home!!

Susanna is the one on the far left with the purple scarf around her waist....she doesn't know I took this picture!  Ha!

Italians have lots of great ideas....but I think this may be one of their best!

Cristina's car is parked in a spot designated ONLY for women!!  The sign (which I don't think is legible) reads, "place reserved for women."  It is close to the entrance/exit of the parking garage...and the detail I particularly get a kick out of is the pink line that distinguishes the spot!!!  I need to talk to the Seattle City Council when I get back!

Downtown Torino at night...it simply sparkled.

This evening we walked the streets and window shopped. 

For dinner we ate at a little cafe and enjoyed a typical Piemontese "happy hour".  For 8 euro we could order a drink and then got access to a buffet of delicious salads, cheeses, pizzas, bruschetta and desserts.

I am really not sure why we don't have something like this in the US...it was perfect as a snack or a meal... you could go back as many times as you liked (I went back twice...plus a dessert run!).

No matter the country, we love our wi-fi and laptops!

Cristina was on the computer on the other side of the room...it was quite funny with all of us on a computer while Bruno, my cousin and Cristina's husband, was watching t.v.

Ah, some things just  always feel like home! 

The following morning we went and explored one of the big markets in Torino.

As a note, at produce markets in Italy you are not allowed to touch the fruit!!  Instead you tell the vendor what you would like and he/she selects the best ones from the pile.  I know last time I was at the market 3 years ago, I was scolded for touching fruit...trust me it didn't happen this time.

Before spending the rest of the evening with family, we made one final stop at EATALY.

This fabulous high end shopping market specializes in everything relating to Italian food.  It has aisles of different pastas, caves of wine and Italian beer, refrigerators full of fresh Mediterranean fish and little tasting areas all over.  Susanna and I stopped for some gelato and Cristina got this amazing zabaglione in a little paper cup :).  I had to get this picture of the truffles they had on display...and yes, you are reading the prices correctly :).  An Eataly just opened in NYC a few months ago...but this one, the original, will always be the best!

In the evening we took Cristina's one year old niece, Cecilia (or "earthquake" as Cristina calls her!), to her swimming lesson.  Her mom, Francesca, wasn't able to splash around that afternoon...so Susanna took her place in the warm pool with the teacher.  I am not sure I have seen anything cuter...little Cecilia in her wee pink swimming cap playing with the toys, swallowing water, doing little kicks and sucking her thumb in between all the big smiles.  I would have gotten a picture...but it wasn't allowed...I found that out when I took out my camera and the teacher looked at me and started shaking her finger.  It was Italian I understood :).

The evening wrapped up over pizza in the kitchen at Bruno and Cristina's house.  Cecilia, Francesca, Andrea (Cristina's brother and dad of Cecilia), Cristina, Bruno, Susanna, Mariucca and Fiorenzo (Bruno's parents) and I all shared my last evening together.  It was quite wonderful, just like the last 2 days I had spent there.  As I sat there in the kitchen just taking in all the melodious Italian, I felt so happy and so lucky.  Cristian, Bruno and Susanna had all completely opened their home and hearts to me...and made me feel so welcome and so at home.  I only hope they all come to visit me soon so I can return their incredible hospitality. In the meantime, a big American hug to all of them!!!!!! Their generosity and kindness is unforgettable.

The following morning Cristina dropped me at the train station so I could head to Modena in Emilia-Romagna for some gastronomic indulgences (which is where I am writing this post from!!).  Her last words to me were, "Do well with your life." Ah, I pray to the good Lord everyday the same thing.

Paris! The City of Lights and...er, Rain :)

NOTE:  As of January 17, 2012, I have moved my blog to my new website:  www.onegirlsadventures.com

I will still be doing duplicate posts on this website for the next 6 months or so, but plan to close it down after that.  Please go to my new website and subscribe!!

MERCI BEAUCOUP!

****

Tonight I wrap up 4 days in Paris.  And really what can I say about Paris that hasn't already been said...it was as expected: Spectacular! My feet got a bit more wet than I would have liked the last 2 days...but I did come in November and my first 2 days here more than made up for the drenching I received yesterday and today.

How can I not start this post without a picture of the Paris' "Iron Lady?"

She is more mesmerizing at night when she literally sparkles.

I took this picture at the end of a "free walking tour" I read about on Trip Advisor...it was kinda neat.  The guides work off tips only and are local Parisians with personalities :).  I did 2 of the 3 tours they offered.

My Parisian apartment!

I was so fortunate to stay at my friend's brother's apartment near the Arc de Triomphe.  It was quaint, cozy and a nice reprieve from hotel life. AND I got to do laundry!  Outside the building door is a 2 star Michelin Restaurant called Michel Rostang, fantastic patisseries and wonderful fresh fish, veggie and fruit markets.  The cheese stores and wine stores were all too much for me to handle as well. Frankly, I need more time here.  I am just now starting to get comfortable (you should see me operate the metro doors now!  Just like a real Parisian!)...plus there are way too many stores that I have yet to visit!

Speaking of stores!  I did get a pair of chaussures from this shop, Repetto....it is a 100% Parisian brand with its history dating back to 1947.  Rose Repetto made prima ballerina shoes for the dancers at the National Opera house (just down the street).  When Bridgette Bardot asked her to make her a pair of shoes, her brand took off.  Madame Repetto opened her first shop in 1959 on Rue de la Paix (where I got my shoes!....and the famous rue with the all the high end jewelry shops...Chopard, Cartier, Van Cliff & Arpels, etc).  If you chose, you can have your foot fitted and they will make you a custom pair.  It takes 3 weeks, but probably worth the wait!  The shoes are beautiful...and a piece of Paris history!

The Second Empire knew what it was doing when it created the National Opera house in Paris. A representation of the republic's success and riches (it was finished in the Third Republic) it is an amazing accomplishment by a relatively unknown architect at the time, Charles Garnier. Next time I will attend a show there and wear my new Repetto shoes:)!

It had been 16 years since I went into the Louvre last...so I figured it was time I renewed acquaintance with Ms. Mona Lisa.  She hasn't changed a bit...although apparently now she is too fragile to move.  Her eternal spot is in the Louvre (no more trips across the pond for an expedition in good ole USA).  The line wasn't horrible when I got there...thankfully...and I made my 11am guided tour by the most french of french men.  He reveled in calling other tourists "barbarians" and wouldn't tolerate any interruptions.  Those who did were cut off quickly with a, "Madame/Monsieur, if you WOULD let me finish....*huff*".  I actually got more entertainment out of him than all the masterpieces I saw :).

It is said it takes 27 days to do the Louvre properly...I gave her 3 hours :).  Sufficient for another 16 years.

Napoleon III's apartment in the Louvre.

French opulence is beyond compare...thanks to all of the inspiration from Louis XIV.  I was in awe as I walked through these retired living quarters...simply divine.  I could live in a land of gold gilded everything :)

  

Just proving that every 2 steps is a photo opp in Paris.  I have no clue as to the history or what this little statuette is all about...but I LOVED her (I actually think she was part of the 1900 expo)! And with the River Seine behind her it begged a picture!

The Latin Quarter!

I appreciated a break from the Hausmmann style architecture that is stereotypical of Paris...don't get me wrong, I love the running balconies and the beautiful, uniform facades that create the Right Bank. But the uneven lines and cartoon like qualities of some of the medieval side streets on the Left Bank delighted me.

Hmmm, my little Asian friend who took this picture kinda cut out most of the Place de la Concorde...but here I am in the heart of Paris.  Also I am in the same plaza where Marie Antoinette was beheaded and 3000 or so others.  Today it is called "Harmony Square"... :).  Interesting fact:  The guillotine was used in Paris up until 1977...then the death penalty was abolished.

In my hand is my pain au chocolat for tomorrow's train ride to Torino, Italy.  Although you can't find these little dandies on any US or European commodity exchange, I swear they are more valuable than gold!  At least that is how I see them...oh, how I inhale those scrumptious delights.  Today, since it was my last day, I pretty much had one hourly :).

Ah, you can guess who this is!!!

Today, my last day, was spent with the master's of impressionism...fantastic!

I had been reading everywhere that the first Sunday of each month was free entrance into Parisian museums.  I kept thinking how great it WOULD have been to come during that weekend...I didn't make the connection that I DID come during THAT weekend until I arrived at Musee de L'Orangerie and they wouldn't take my money at the ticket booth!  Yay! After Orangerie, I headed over to spend time at Musee d'Orsay.  Loved most the pieces by Bonnard.

After all the walking and museum time, I was starved!  So this girl in Paris went to the markets to take advantage of all the fresh goods and her kitchen in Paris!

First stop was veggies...cherry tomatoes, italian parsley and garlic. (actually the first stop was for a lovely Sancerre at well supplied wine shop....he even opened the bottle for me before leaving).

Second stop was for some wonderful fresh shrimp and clams.  If I understood correctly they came from Normandy.  Last stop was to the Monoprix for some pasta!

Small but sufficient kitchen!

Everything smelled wonderful...and it was incredibly simple meal!

Voila!

And I ate all of it....soooo yummy, so flavorful, so fresh...and only like 6 ingredients!

Clean up wasn't so bad either...but even in Paris it isn't fun :).

Tomorrow is a VERY early morning.  My train to Torino leaves at 7:41am...and those who know me well, know that I am NOT a morning person :).  However, tomorrow I think I may bounce out of bed easier because in Torino I will be visiting my Italian relatives!!!  I cannot wait!!!!  Let's hope I just don't bring the rain with me!

Last picture from Paris:

Rodin's The Kiss 

I think this is pretty much the only way to spend time in Paris!

Yet another romantic city to come back to...ah, Africa was easier in this respect :).

Au Revoir from my last French speaking country.  Only 2 more countries left on my tour of 8 over these 2 months....where does time go!?